FAQ
Questions I hear on almost every first call.
If yours isn't here, that's what the phone is for — 530-906-6054.
It depends entirely on the loan program. VA and USDA loans can go to 0% down for eligible buyers. FHA starts at 3.5%. Conventional loans can go as low as 3% for qualified first-time buyers, though 20% avoids mortgage insurance. There's no single answer — it's worth a conversation about which program fits your situation.
Again, it depends on the program. FHA and VA loans are typically more forgiving than conventional financing. Rather than guess based on a rule of thumb, send me your general range and I'll tell you honestly which programs are realistically in play.
Pre-qualification is a rough estimate based on what you tell me, with no documentation reviewed. Pre-approval means I've actually reviewed your income, assets, and credit and can issue a real pre-approval letter — the version sellers and agents take seriously. I always aim to get you a real pre-approval before you start touring homes.
A typical purchase runs 30–45 days from accepted offer to closing, though it can move faster depending on the property and how quickly documentation comes together. A refinance often follows a similar timeline. I'll give you a realistic estimate once I know your specific situation.
Generally: recent pay stubs, W-2s or tax returns, bank statements, and a photo ID. Self-employed borrowers and those with more complex income usually need additional documentation. I'll send you a specific checklist once we start your file — no guessing required.
A single mortgage credit pull has a minor, temporary impact. Rate-shopping multiple mortgage lenders within a focused window is typically counted by credit scoring models as a single inquiry, not several — so comparing options doesn't multiply the impact the way people often assume.
Your interest rate determines your monthly principal-and-interest payment. Your APR rolls in certain fees and costs to express the loan's total cost as a yearly rate — which is why APR is usually a bit higher than the note rate. Useful for comparing offers, less useful for figuring out your actual monthly payment.
Yes — it's more common than most self-employed buyers expect. It usually means more documentation (typically two years of tax returns) and, depending on your situation, a Non-QM program built specifically around self-employed income. This is an area I work in regularly.
Private mortgage insurance protects the lender, not you, and generally applies to conventional loans with less than 20% down. It cancels automatically once you reach 22% equity, and you can request cancellation at 20%. FHA loans use a similar but separate insurance (MIP) with different cancellation rules — worth understanding before choosing between the two.
Not at all — I'm licensed to originate loans throughout California, and most of the process happens by phone, email, and secure document upload regardless of where in the state you're buying.
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